A carburetor kit has everything you need to rebuild your carburetor. The carb kit will not cause your engine to leak gas, but we’ve listed it here because it’s a great tool for repairing carburetor problems, and performing preventative maintenance. A note on carb repair: we recommend you take pictures of all the parts as your take it apart, so you’re aware of where they go during reassembly. Also, this procedure will vary depending on the type of snow blower you own. You may or may not have to remove as many items as we discuss here to gain access to the carburetor. In fact, for some models the carburetor is already exposed, so you will not have to remove anything to gain access to it.
Start by removing the chute gear box support bracket by removing the clip holding the chute control rod, then remove the rod. Next, remove...
A carburetor kit has everything you need to rebuild your carburetor. The carb kit will not cause your engine to leak gas, but we’ve listed it here because it’s a great tool for repairing carburetor problems, and performing preventative maintenance. A note on carb repair: we recommend you take pictures of all the parts as your take it apart, so you’re aware of where they go during reassembly. Also, this procedure will vary depending on the type of snow blower you own. You may or may not have to remove as many items as we discuss here to gain access to the carburetor. In fact, for some models the carburetor is already exposed, so you will not have to remove anything to gain access to it.
Start by removing the chute gear box support bracket by removing the clip holding the chute control rod, then remove the rod. Next, remove the pin on the support bracket and pull out the pin. Remove any nuts securing the gear box, then remove the gear box and chute. Remove the bolts securing the belt cover and release the drive belt idler pulley tension spring. The next step is to remove the bolts securing the gear box support bracket, and remove the bracket itself. Next, remove any covers and heat shrouds needed to gain access to the carburetor. You may have to remove the handle bar on some models to pull off the covers. You may also have to remove the throttle knob, disconnect any switches, and disconnect the fuel lines on the primer bulb, and remove that cover. As we mentioned, these variations will vary between models. Locate the bolts holding the carburetor onto the engine and air intake, and remove. Remove the choke lever carefully. Pinch off the fuel line to prevent fuel from flowing everywhere, then remove the fuel line and slide the choke control plate off the carburetor and disconnect the linkage from the control plate, then the carburetor. Next, disconnect the throttle rod return spring and remove the throttle rod from the carburetor. The carburetor should now slide right off.
Lie on a bench and start disassembly by removing the nut on the bowl, then remove the bowl and gasket. Next, remove the float pin and the needle valve. Unscrew the main jet screw and dump it out with the emulsion tube, then remove the plastic throttle stop and the metering plug out of the carburetor. Spray the carburetor, fuel bowl, and all the small orifices with carburetor cleaner, then wipe clean. If you notice any corrosion inside the carburetor or the bowl, it’s beyond repair and will need to be replaced.
Reinstall a new emulsion tube and a new main jet and tighten. Install a new metering plug down tight, and reinstall the throttle stop screw and thread in until it sticks out the other side about 1/16 of an inch. Next, install the new spring on the needle valve and snap the new needle valve into the new float and reattach the float into the carburetor by sliding the new pin in. Install the new bowl O-ring and reinstall the bowl, and tighten down. Once rebuilt, reinstall the carburetor and the gasket onto the engine, then reattach the throttle cable and fuel line. It’s safe to unpinch the fuel line at this time. Reinstall the cover that houses all the knobs, switches and primer bulb, taking care to hook everything back up. Reinstall all the covers, shrouds, and the handle bar. Next, reinstall the gear box support bracket. Then reapply the tension on the drive belt and reinstall the cover. Reinstall the gear box and chute using the pin and retaining clip. Make sure the holes in the gear box coupler are facing straight up with the chute facing forward, and ensure that the chute control lever is in the one o’clock position, then reinstall the rod.
Read More