Medium
30-60 minutes
This is an authentic MTD replacement part. The fuel line kit is designed by the manufacturer for use in snowblowers. This part includes the rubber tube and two metal clamps, and is used to carry fuel through the machine. You will require pliers when replacing these items.
Kit-fuel Line 951-10650
OEM part for: MTD, Yard Machines
Part Number: 951-10650
$28.54
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Compatibility
This Kit-fuel Line will fit the following 791 machines. Confirm this part works with your model, and view the detailed model diagrams and repair help we have to offer.
Displaying 20 of 791 matching models.
791 total model matches. Try the above search to narrow your results.
This is the official OEM part for the following brands:
- Bolens
- Craftsman
- Cub Cadet
- Husky
- MTD
- Troy-Bilt
- Yard Machines
- Yard Man
This item works with the following types of products:
- Chipper / Shredder
- Engine
- Lawn Mower
- Log Splitter
- Snowblower
This part replaces obsolete part #: 751-10650
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Customer Repair Instructions ?
All our customer repair instructions are solicited directly from other customers just like you who have purchased and replaced this exact part.
leaked
Robert - July 10, 2019
Tool Type
Snowblower
Difficulty
Medium
Time
1-2 hours
Tools Used
Screwdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Parts Used
Removed housing assemblies, controls,knobs,removed the carb, removed the old hose and replaced it.
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Leaking fuel line
Elijah - February 1, 2019
Tool Type
Snowblower
Difficulty
Medium
Time
15-30 minutes
Tools Used
Screwdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench Set
Parts Used
1. After emptying the fuel from the tank, remove (4) of the #10 bolts from the exhaust housing. One bolt that is wedged slightly between the exhaust housing and the fuel tank will require a #10 box-end or open-end wrench for removal and replacing.
2. Once the (4) bolts are removed the next step is to remove the (2) #10 castle nuts that hold the carburetor to the intake. Then pull up and forward on the exhaust shroud until you have room to work on the fuel line. It will only go so far because there is one other bolt at the bottom of the unit that you cannot get off unless you completely remove the housing from the blower unit.
3. After removing the bolts and nuts you need to pry the complete plastic housing unit/section toward the rear, away from the engine. Do not pull too far or the engine vent/breather tube will come off and it is hard to get back in place due to limited work space. Unlike the newer series the 2410 knobs do not come off with a simple pull. So you will need to work with the space you have unless you are willing to take the electric start unit, the fuel tank, the engine shroud and the choke controls off. And that can be a very timely job.
4. Using a pair of long needle nose pliers, squeeze the tabs on the hose clamp and slide down from the fixed fuel filter and carburator couplings.
5. Once the clamps are no longer on the end of the line then remove the fuel line by using the needle nose pliers to clamp on to the hose and using a 6 or 8 inch flat tip screw driver you can pry the hose off the tank and carburetor.
6. After removing the fuel line just reverse the steps.
One key element with this job is to purchase the correct outside Diameter fuel line. If you get the normal 1/4 I.D. fuel line it will be too thick and will interfere with the fuel shut-off level action...that will cause your fuel to flow when the engine is off and will bypass the carburetor and load your cylinder with fuel when its not running. You need a thin wall fuel line. Most of the ones I noticed that state OEM on the advertisement...they aren't.
2. Once the (4) bolts are removed the next step is to remove the (2) #10 castle nuts that hold the carburetor to the intake. Then pull up and forward on the exhaust shroud until you have room to work on the fuel line. It will only go so far because there is one other bolt at the bottom of the unit that you cannot get off unless you completely remove the housing from the blower unit.
3. After removing the bolts and nuts you need to pry the complete plastic housing unit/section toward the rear, away from the engine. Do not pull too far or the engine vent/breather tube will come off and it is hard to get back in place due to limited work space. Unlike the newer series the 2410 knobs do not come off with a simple pull. So you will need to work with the space you have unless you are willing to take the electric start unit, the fuel tank, the engine shroud and the choke controls off. And that can be a very timely job.
4. Using a pair of long needle nose pliers, squeeze the tabs on the hose clamp and slide down from the fixed fuel filter and carburator couplings.
5. Once the clamps are no longer on the end of the line then remove the fuel line by using the needle nose pliers to clamp on to the hose and using a 6 or 8 inch flat tip screw driver you can pry the hose off the tank and carburetor.
6. After removing the fuel line just reverse the steps.
One key element with this job is to purchase the correct outside Diameter fuel line. If you get the normal 1/4 I.D. fuel line it will be too thick and will interfere with the fuel shut-off level action...that will cause your fuel to flow when the engine is off and will bypass the carburetor and load your cylinder with fuel when its not running. You need a thin wall fuel line. Most of the ones I noticed that state OEM on the advertisement...they aren't.
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Thanks for voting and helping fellow customers!
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All our part reviews are solicited directly from other customers who have purchased this exact part. While we moderate these reviews for profanity, offensive language or personally identifiable information, these reviews are posted exactly as submitted and no alterations are made by our team.
All our customer repair instructions are solicited directly from other customers just like you who have purchased and replaced this exact part. While we moderate these reviews for profanity, offensive language or personally identifiable information, these reviews are posted exactly as submitted and no alterations are made by our team.
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