Medium
30-60 minutes
This is an authentic MTD replacement part. The fuel line kit is designed by the manufacturer for use in snowblowers. This part includes the rubber tube and two metal clamps, and is used to carry fuel through the machine. You will require pliers when replacing these items.
Kit-fuel Line 951-10650
OEM part for: MTD, Yard Machines
Part Number: 951-10650
$28.54
In Stock
Ships within 1 business day 
Jump To:
Frequently Purchased Together ?
Compatibility
This Kit-fuel Line will fit the following 791 machines. Confirm this part works with your model, and view the detailed model diagrams and repair help we have to offer.
Displaying 20 of 791 matching models.
791 total model matches. Try the above search to narrow your results.
This is the official OEM part for the following brands:
- Bolens
- Craftsman
- Cub Cadet
- Husky
- MTD
- Troy-Bilt
- Yard Machines
- Yard Man
This item works with the following types of products:
- Chipper / Shredder
- Engine
- Lawn Mower
- Log Splitter
- Snowblower
This part replaces obsolete part #: 751-10650
Questions & Answers ?
Our customer Service team is at the ready daily to answer your part and product questions.
Ask our Team
We have a dedicated staff with decades of collective experience in helping customers just like you purchase parts to repair their products.
Does this fit my product?Questions & Answers for Kit-fuel Line
No questions have been asked yet
Customer Repair Instructions ?
All our customer repair instructions are solicited directly from other customers just like you who have purchased and replaced this exact part.
leaked
Robert - July 10, 2019
Tool Type
Snowblower
Difficulty
Medium
Time
1-2 hours
Tools Used
Screwdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Parts Used
Removed housing assemblies, controls,knobs,removed the carb, removed the old hose and replaced it.
Did you find this story helpful?
Thanks for voting and helping fellow customers!
Leaking fuel line
Elijah - February 1, 2019
Tool Type
Snowblower
Difficulty
Medium
Time
15-30 minutes
Tools Used
Screwdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench Set
Parts Used
1. After emptying the fuel from the tank, remove (4) of the #10 bolts from the exhaust housing. One bolt that is wedged slightly between the exhaust housing and the fuel tank will require a #10 box-end or open-end wrench for removal and replacing.
2. Once the (4) bolts are removed the next step is to remove the (2) #10 castle nuts that hold the carburetor to the intake. Then pull up and forward on the exhaust shroud until you have room to work on the fuel line. It will only go so far because there is one other bolt at the bottom of the unit that you cannot get off unless you completely remove the housing from the blower unit.
3. After removing the bolts and nuts you need to pry the complete plastic housing unit/section toward the rear, away from the engine. Do not pull too far or the engine vent/breather tube will come off and it is hard to get back in place due to limited work space. Unlike the newer series the 2410 knobs do not come off with a simple pull. So you will need to work with the space you have unless you are willing to take the electric start unit, the fuel tank, the engine shroud and the choke controls off. And that can be a very timely job.
4. Using a pair of long needle nose pliers, squeeze the tabs on the hose clamp and slide down from the fixed fuel filter and carburator couplings.
5. Once the clamps are no longer on the end of the line then remove the fuel line by using the needle nose pliers to clamp on to the hose and using a 6 or 8 inch flat tip screw driver you can pry the hose off the tank and carburetor.
6. After removing the fuel line just reverse the steps.
One key element with this job is to purchase the correct outside Diameter fuel line. If you get the normal 1/4 I.D. fuel line it will be too thick and will interfere with the fuel shut-off level action...that will cause your fuel to flow when the engine is off and will bypass the carburetor and load your cylinder with fuel when its not running. You need a thin wall fuel line. Most of the ones I noticed that state OEM on the advertisement...they aren't.
2. Once the (4) bolts are removed the next step is to remove the (2) #10 castle nuts that hold the carburetor to the intake. Then pull up and forward on the exhaust shroud until you have room to work on the fuel line. It will only go so far because there is one other bolt at the bottom of the unit that you cannot get off unless you completely remove the housing from the blower unit.
3. After removing the bolts and nuts you need to pry the complete plastic housing unit/section toward the rear, away from the engine. Do not pull too far or the engine vent/breather tube will come off and it is hard to get back in place due to limited work space. Unlike the newer series the 2410 knobs do not come off with a simple pull. So you will need to work with the space you have unless you are willing to take the electric start unit, the fuel tank, the engine shroud and the choke controls off. And that can be a very timely job.
4. Using a pair of long needle nose pliers, squeeze the tabs on the hose clamp and slide down from the fixed fuel filter and carburator couplings.
5. Once the clamps are no longer on the end of the line then remove the fuel line by using the needle nose pliers to clamp on to the hose and using a 6 or 8 inch flat tip screw driver you can pry the hose off the tank and carburetor.
6. After removing the fuel line just reverse the steps.
One key element with this job is to purchase the correct outside Diameter fuel line. If you get the normal 1/4 I.D. fuel line it will be too thick and will interfere with the fuel shut-off level action...that will cause your fuel to flow when the engine is off and will bypass the carburetor and load your cylinder with fuel when its not running. You need a thin wall fuel line. Most of the ones I noticed that state OEM on the advertisement...they aren't.
Did you find this story helpful?
Thanks for voting and helping fellow customers!
OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer and means the part you’re buying is sourced directly from the manufacturer who made your product. At eReplacementParts, we sell only genuine OEM parts, guaranteeing the part you’re purchasing is of better design and of higher quality than aftermarket parts.
Learn MoreOur product descriptions are a combination of data sourced directly from the manufacturers who made your product as well as content researched and curated by our content & customer service teams. This content is edited and reviewed internally before being made public to customers.
Our customer service team are at the ready daily to answer your part and product questions. We have a dedicated staff with decades of collective experience in helping customers just like you purchase parts to repair their products.
All our part reviews are solicited directly from other customers who have purchased this exact part. While we moderate these reviews for profanity, offensive language or personally identifiable information, these reviews are posted exactly as submitted and no alterations are made by our team.
All our customer repair instructions are solicited directly from other customers just like you who have purchased and replaced this exact part. While we moderate these reviews for profanity, offensive language or personally identifiable information, these reviews are posted exactly as submitted and no alterations are made by our team.
Based on data from past customer purchasing behaviors, these parts are most commonly purchased together along with the part you are viewing. These parts may be necessary or helpful to replace to complete your current repair.
All our installation videos are created and produced in collaboration with our in-house repair technician, Mark Sodja, who has helped millions of eReplacementParts customers over the last 13 years repair their products. Mark has years of experience in selling and repairing both commercial and residential products with a specialty in gas-powered equipment.
This data is collected from customers who submitted a repair instruction after replacing this exact part. Customers can rate how easy the repair was to complete and how long it took. We aggregate this data to provide a repair rating that allows customers to quickly determine the difficulty and time needed to perform their own repair.
